Portuguese Wines April 2019

        Geraldine and I celebrated one of her ‘major’ birthdays last month by spending the better part of a week in Lisbon, Portugal. This was my first trip to Portugal and I looked forward to increasing my knowledge of Portuguese wines. Unlike most New World producers who have tried to replicate world famous varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, the Portuguese wine industry has concentrated on using their many indigenous grapes. Since wine production in Portugal dates back to before Roman times, it has not been difficult to figure out which varietals work best for their local “terroir”. This approach places a heavier burden on marketing. For example, not many consumers understand that the main varietal in “Green Wine” production is the Alvarhino grape, actually the same as the better known “Albarino” grape in Spain..

        For centuries Portugal has been known for its sweet wines, such as Port and Madeira, and in our parents’ generation for inexpensive rosés, such as Mateus. Table wines were produced and sold cheaply in great abundance, mostly through cooperatives. Quality production with red grapes was reserved for port wines. The advent of custom unions in the sixties, followed by Portugal’s joining the European Union, acted as catalysts to improve quality of both red and white wines. Today Portuguese wines are sought after for their attractive values and many are receiving high ratings for their quality.

Map of the Wine Regions of Portugal

Vinho Verde (Minho) NW Portugal

Douro Valley (N interior)

Dāo (central interior)

Bairrada (Atlantic)

Tejo (N of Lisbon)

Alentjo (S interior)

The Major Varietals

White (Branco):

Alvarinho (Albarino) – fine, mineral, tropical fruits, flowers

Arinto – lemony, steely, mineral

Encruzado – fine, full bodied Dāo white

Fernāo Pires – floral, fruity

Red (Tinto):

Baga – firm long lived intense reds

Castelāo,  firmly raspberry-fruity

Tinta Roriz – Argonēs Tempranillo in Spain, appealing red fruited

Touriga Franca – dense, fragrant with velvety tannins

Touriga Nacional – aromatic, herby, full-bodied

Trincadeira – bright, raspberry, fruity

Winery Visit

After five days in Lisbon, we spent one night in Tomar, home to the famous Templar Castle, where Luis Campos had arranged a custom ‘Tuk Lovers’ vineyard tour to Quinta Casal Das Freiras. The owner’s daughter, Rita Vidal, and her husband, Ricardo Gonçalves, gave us a lengthy description of their large farming operation, that, in addition to the vineyards and winery, includes olives, vegetables and forests on more than 2,000 hectares. Ricardo, who speaks excellent English, was very generous with his time and pointed out olive groves including some 500 year-old trees. The farm has been in the family since the 19^th century!

We toured their wine-making facilities and Ricardo explained that to accommodate the growth of their white wine production, currently at only 15%, they are bringing in new equipment and reorganizing things. It was interesting to note the clay roof tiles designed to keep the storage areas cool. Last year temperatures reached over 118 deg Fahrenheit!

We then went into another beautiful old building for the wine tasting that was full of antique wine and olive oil making equipment. Rita had arranged a table of  appetizing hors d’oeuvres.

We tasted two whites, a rosé and two reds:

Colhaita Branco – made with Fernāo Pires and Sauvignon Blanc was flowers and fruit but dry.

Arinto – more acidic, dry and better suited to my taste.

Argonès Rosé – made from the Tempranillo grape, dry and pleasantly refreshing.

Syrah – spicy and full flavored. I liked this one.

2016 Reserve Blend- Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, Argonēs. Full bodied 14% alcohol. An attractive blend!

Ricardo’s main challenge is to obtain a DOC (Denomination of Origin) top rating for his better wines, that requires detailed substantiation of the composition of his wines, and in turn, a more sophisticated wine–making process, The introduction of his wines to the U.S. is another challenge. At present his vineyard’s production is too small to afford establishing some workable channels.

         We both thoroughly enjoyed the wines, the food, getting to know some real winemakers in Portugal and so much appreciated their generous hospitality. Our visit added a new dimension to my understanding of Portuguese wines, and I highly recommend arranging a tour of this vineyard thru Luis http://www.tuklovers.com/, if you plan to include Tomar in your itinerary. And don’t forget to also tour the 12th Templars Castle, Convent of Christ and the amazing aqueduct with Luis, whose knowledge of history is amazing.

        

Wine Touring in the Alto Adige, Italy

Introduction

In September I was able to combine a week of excellent hiking in the Dolomites with several days of wine touring through the vineyards of the Alto Adige (known as the Sud Tirol in German, and South Tyrol in English). I have inserted a map to better orient the reader. The Dolomites have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site for the beauty of their rugged mountain ranges and appealing alpine meadows. A fellow outdoorsman, Charlie Goodman, and I covered a good bit of this terrain and appreciated its unique cultural and physical character. For further background see the one-page addendum on tourism in the Alto Adige.

Varietals and Terroir

I have to admit to having developed an interest in this area from tasting some of its excellent white wines that are available in the U.S. I found their finesse and distinctiveness, particularly the Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Traminer, very appealing. Despite being surrounded by alpine terrain at relatively high 600-3,000 feet elevations, these varietals produce unusually pure flavors, not experienced by their competitors elsewhere. The soils are rich in alluvial deposits (from long-ago retreating glaciers) and contain an abundance of limestone and other minerals. The proximity to the Mediterranean exposes the area to warmer flows from the south during the day, while cooler air descends from the Alps at night. This creates a wide temperature amplitude, encouraging ripening during daytime warmth and resting during nighttime hours.

On the “Road”

Bolzano’s Main Square

So, based in the city of Bolzano above, I followed the Alto Adige Wine Road where most of the better wineries are located. See map above. I selected a half dozen to visit during my two touring days and, despite the rain, managed to locate most of them. My first visit was to the Cantina Tramin Kellerei in Tramin, Alto Adige. See photo below. The winery is known for its excellent Gewurztraminer varietal that they have been growing here for centuries and is considered the progenitor of the better-known Gewurztraminer grape grown in the Alsace region of France. They also

Tramin Vineyar

produce good Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and several red varietals. Focusing on the Gewurztraminer, I found it very similar to its Alsatian cousin – dry, crisp, plenty of fruit flavors, with a telltale hint of spice in the aroma. Although it was not the best time to explore the area in the rain, I was impressed by the size of the vineyards, which spread to the northeast along the relatively flat Adige river valley.

My second stop was at the Tiefenbrunner Schloss Kellerei Turmhof in the village of Niclara-Cortaccia just off the Wine Road. This charming old manor house and restaurant/tasting room oozes character and old world charm. See photo. Despite the wet weather it was a popular place for lunch and the

Tiefenbrunner Manor House

restaurant was buzzing. I ordered the “Local Tyrolean Platter,” which included a board with thick smoked bacon (spec), salami, cheese and bread enough for 2 persons! I enjoyed a glass of their 2016 Pinot Grigio, recently rated 91 pts by the Wine Enthusiast. It was excellent. Tiefenbrunner produces a broad array of  high quality whites and reds, some international varietals, along with the usual local whites. For example, their very special 2015 Feld Marschall von Fenner Mûller Thûrgau (from grapes grown close to 3,000 feet – the highest elevation in Europe) won the Gambero Rosso’s highest rating of Tres Bicchieri (3 glasses). Needless to say, its small production was sold out! On the way out I purchased a bottle of the 2016 Pinot Grigiot that served to embellish picnics in Umbria the following week.

My third and last stop of the day was at Alois Lageder Restaurant and Winery in Magre,

a beautiful old village nestled below a steep cliff. The rain had stopped, so I enjoyed walking along the village stream to reach to the tasting room, filled with happy customers. See photo. I sampled two Pinot Biancos, including Beta Delta, as well as their Chardonnay. The Beta Delta was a step above the others with more pronounced flavors and character. However, these are all well-made wines that would score in the high 80’s. Perhaps their most famous wine is the Lowengang Chardonnay that has a very high rating. If you can find it, the 2014 is going for about $50 a bottle!

Day 2

The next day proved even wetter, but I persisted and drove to St. Michael-Eppan San Michele Appiano. See map above. This is another of the Adige wineries whose wines I have enjoyed in the past. The wet weather reduced consumer traffic, so I had a server pretty much to myself. Don’t worry, I was spitting! St. Michael’s is a cooperative of some 300 growers and is over 100 years old. They have three levels of wine offerings: Classical, Selection and Sanct Valentin. All were available, so I focused on the last group since it offers the best quality. I tasted the Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon, and Gewurztraminer. They were all excellent, but I liked the Pinot Bianco the best. It was probably my favorite of the two days. The ratings for these wines were all close to 90 or above. The Sanct Valentin wines can be found in vintages from the last four years. I would expect to cellar these wines for at least 5-10 years.

My last stop was at Cantina Terlano in the village of Terlano a few kilometers north of Bolzano. See map above. This winery impressed me with its broad range of offerings and its quality/price appeal. It has two levels: Tradition and Selection. Tradition wines

2016 Terlaner Classico

include all of the varietals we have talked about at very fair prices E10-12 per bottle. Selection steps up to E12-16. My favorites were the Tradition’s Pinot Grigio and the Gewurztraminer and, among the Selection, I liked the Terlaner Classico White Blend of Pinot Bianco (60%), Chardonnay (30%), and Sauvignon (10%). The Sauvignon Winkl was also high on my list. Robert Parker rated the 2016 Classico a 92! The tasting room was crowded, and it looked as though customers were enjoying the wines! Most of them are available in the U.S. at prices in the low-to-mid $20 range.

So, in conclusion. this short tour in the Alto Adige confirmed my previous positive impression of their wines as being fresh, distinctive, and deserving of a special place in my cellar.

Cheers!   Allen

Addendum: Alto Adige Tourism Overview (from: http://www.altoadigewinesusa.com)

Breathtaking landscapes, sporting activities, Michelin-starred cuisine, and of course, great wines. welcome travelers to the Alto Adige region {also known as Sûdtirol in German and South Tyrol in Eng{istt}. Escape to Alto Adige and discover the natural beauty of Italy’s smallest and northernmost wine-growing region.

Nestled in ihe magnificent Dolomite Mountains, Alto Adige brings together the best of two worlds: rich Alpine traditions with ltalian dolce vita. Alpine and Mediterranean customs meet in this unique corner of the world virtually unknown to the mainstream traveler. A border region with blurred cultural and linguistic boundaries, Alto Adige is the intersection between the German-speaking countries and Italy. This contrasting yet harmonious combination provides fascinating cultural diversity. Historically part of Austria, the autonomous province was annexed by Italy after World War L The Germanic influence is seen today both culturally and in its wine styles, with many wine labels printed in both German and ltalian languages.

ln winter, the region is home to some of Europe’s finest ski slopes (and apres-ski) in the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Not widely known is that Alto Adige offers endless activities all year long. ln spring and summer, outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy hiking trails (at all levels) along the South Tyrolean Wine Road, recreational cycling routes, even kite surfing. ln summer, visitors can swim in Lake Caldaro the warmest Alpine lake) and enjoy the sunshine. The region is also home to numerous spas, especially in Merano. For the avid sightseer, historic churches, ancient castles and charming Alpine villages dot the region.

Exploring the vineyards on foot is a great way to experience the region’s pristine natural beauty. Hiking trails through terraced slopes and grapevines lead visitors to idyllic, hidden places with incredible mountain views. The wine trails in Alto Adige’s diverse growing zones offer an opportunity to taste some of Italy’s finest and most unique wines. Twenty different indigenous and international grape varieties are grown in the region, from Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Gewürztraminer to Pinot Nero Pinot Noir), Lagrein and Schiava.

For more information:

http://www.a!toadigewinesusa.com
Official Tourism board : http://www.südtirol. info/en/

http://www.facebook.com/AAwines
@altoadigewines on Twitter & lnstagram

 

 

 

 

Tips on Wine Touring in Burgundy, France

Nuits-St-Georges

 

Les Climats (vineyards) de Bourgogne were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in July 2015. In June 2016, we were fortunate enough to visit three of the five wine regions of Burgundy: Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, and Côte Chalonnaise. Limited to five days, we did not have time to tour Chablis or the Maconnais.   Given that two of the three regions we did visit produce the most prestigious and expensive Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the world, I thought it best to focus wherever possible on value wines that I might buy at home for less than three figures! Later, I will address the challenges this presented.

Wine Regions of Burgundy

Geographically, our primary focus was a forty mile stretch NE to SW from Dijon to Chalon-sur-Saône that lies on the eastern side of a continuous ridge for most of this distance. The sunny, east-facing slopes encourage the grapes to ripen more quickly, provide for the best drainage, and thus, the best quality wines are located here. The town of Beaune lies roughly in between the two larger cities. Go to the excellent touring guide at

http://www.burgundytoday.com/touring-routes/grands-crus.htm with map of the Route des Grands Crus. The over 500 1er Crus follow roughly the same path through some thirty villages along the N74.

 

Le Chateau, Cussy-la-Colonne

From the U.S. or London via Charles de Gaulle Airport, either take the TGV from CDG to Lyon (2 hrs) and then backtrack to Dijon, or go into Paris to the Gare de Lyon to catch a convenient TGV direct to Dijon (1 ½ hrs). Either way, you need to rent a car to tour this area.  Regarding lodging, we recommend selecting one of the prettier villages with a good restaurant as a base, rather than the more expensive hotels and restaurants in Dijon or Beaune. We were very privileged to have the use of a chateau belonging to a friend of a friend, in the small village of Cussy-la-Colonne.

Burgundy Wine Basics:

The quality of wines in Burgundy is determined by the terroir. The source of the grapes also determines their Appellation. There are four levels of quality: Vin de Bourgogne (regionally-sourced grapes), “Village”, Premier Cru (or 1er Cru – First Growth), and Grand Cru at the top. There are only 32 Grand Crus designated in Burgundy, accounting for only 2% of Burgundy production vs. 562 Premier Crus accounting for 11%. “Village” wines account for 35% and regional wines about half of Burgundy’s wine production.

Burgundy Wine Labels:
Chambertin 1er Cru

Many vineyards, particularly the better ones, are shared by several owners who work their respective parcels separately, but carry the designated Appellation of the vineyard plus the owner/winemaker’s Domaine name. A Domaine in Burgundy is equivalent to a Chateau in Bordeaux, delineating the grower’s ownership of the grapes used in producing the wine. A grower is likely to own many parcels. These parcels have been codified and delineated through centuries of continuous production. So Appellations are the result of over 1,000 years of tending these vines and knowing the quality each produces. Each terroir is unique and its production limited by the number of hectares of a parcel or vineyard – hence the sky-high prices for the best wines!

Given this fact, I wanted to spend time looking for affordable values. On the upper and lower mid-slopes of the Côte d’Or (a 15-mile-long by 2-mile-wide escarpment), the Côte de Nuits is home to 25 Grand Crus, and about 135 Premier Crus. This area has some of the best Pinot Noir produced in the world, with some of the highest prices, including the famous Domaine de La Romanée Conti Grand Cru, which goes for over $13,000 a bottle and is rated 97. Most other Grand Crus rate in the 95+ range and are priced over $1,000 a bottle. Premier Crus from this area range from a minimum of $75 to $250, depending on their ratings. “Village” wines rated 90 or better offer the best value, in a range from $30 to $75 a bottle. Regional wines would seldom reach a 90 rating and sell in the $25-$50 price range.

A good place to find value might be Marsannay, the northernmost Appellation in the Côte de Nuits. Here “Village” Pinot Noir wines rated in the upper 80’s to low 90’s can be found at prices from $25 to $50. I didn’t explore this area, but Jancis Robinson, the FT’s wine writer, particularly recommends Domaine Huguenot and Chateau de Marsannay. The Chateau is well reviewed in Trip Advisor for both vineyard tours and tastings of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and rosé wines.

Further south is the Appellation of Fixin, whose Pinot Noir is closest to its neighboring village, Gevrey-Chambertin, with somewhat less complexity and depth, but still offering value in both its “Village” and Premier Cru wines. Ratings are in the high 80’s to low 90’s and prices vary from $25 to >$100.

Crossing over to the Côte de Beaune (a subregion of the Côte d’Or) to the west is Pernand-Vergelesse, known for both its reds (Pinot) and whites (Chardonnay). This is not comparable in ratings to those areas lying east of the escarpment, such as Nuits-St-Georges, Vougeot, or Vosne-Romanée, but some of their good Premier Crus priced around $50 are rated 90-92 and are excellent value.

Further to the south, Savigny-les-Beaune has well rated Premier Crus for $50-$80, but much higher for the best. The picturesque villages of Volnay, Pommard, and Santenay are worth a visit for their wines, as well as their good restaurants.

Winery Visits

Domaine Michel Juillot, Mercury

We had a very successful first touring day on Sunday, June 5, in the Côte Chalonnaise. After spending a pleasant morning walking around the beautiful town of Chalon-sur-Saone, taking many photos along the river and at the Sunday morning outdoor food market, we drove to Mercury to visit Domaine Michel Juillot to taste both his Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. Mercury is probably better known for its red wine, but I love their dry, minerally whites too. Michel is probably my age and has handed over the day-to-day management of the winery to his son, Laurent. Mercury’s reds are on the lighter side, but their 2012 1er Cru would go well with poultry. We also tasted a 2013 sturdier Pinot Noir that could have easily handled a game dish. We then tasted their 2013 1er Cru Chardonnay that I immediately took to. I bought a couple of bottles on the spot, including a Corton Grand Cru red and 2 bottles of the Chardonnay to give to our dinner host that evening.  I have since found the 2013 Chardonnay at a Washington D.C. retailer, Weygandt Wines for $33 a bottle and ordered a half dozen!

We then lunched at a great local restaurant, La Garenne, in nearby Dracy-le-Fort, and it was excellent! Sunday lunch is invariably a family affair in France, so it was fun to observe the generations gathered together around a large table, sharing good food at their local restaurant. We enjoyed tasting two half bottles, a local Givry 1er Cru Chardonnay, as well as a Savigny-les-Beaune!

After lunch we visited the Caves des Vignerons de Buxy, primarily to taste the wines of Montagny. Their wines are more easily found in the U.S. at quality table wine prices, i.e. $15-35. Montagny’s production is exclusively white and 2/3 are labeled 1er Cru, so one has to pay attention to the vineyard’s location – Les Coères is considered an excellent terroir. Better 1er Cru Montagny wines can be aged for up to 8 years.

Maison Marchand-Tawes, Nuits-St-Georges, with Guillaume

Private Tours are available, but they can be expensive and it’s difficult to know in advance which vineyards are being selected for visits/tastings on any particular day. On Monday, June 6, we chose to use local village tourist offices and did well in Nuits-St-Georges and bombed in Gevrey-Chambertin later that afternoon! We were directed to Maison Marchand-Tawes in the center of Nuits-St-Georges, and given a tour of  this working winery, including their cellars and bottling areas, as well as being offered a number of their top wines to taste. See photo opposite. Pascal Marchand, a Québecoise, is the winemaker and his staff, led by Guillaume, could not have been more helpful in conducting our tour and describing the various wines.  Most memorable were a 2012 Morey St. Denis, a 2011 Corton Grand Cru, a 2010 Chambertin, and a 2012 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru. These were beyond our budget, but we had an excellent chance to savor some of the very best Pinot Noirs from the area. Jancis Robinson has written about Pascal Marchand at http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/marchand-bi-hemispherical-observations . I have emailed their U.S. distributor to find out where I might find some of these wines here, but no success to date.

Hautes Côtes de Beaune, overlooking Nuits-St-Georges

On Wednesday, we toured some villages we had not yet seen in the Côte de Nuits and had a delicious picnic overlooking the vineyards of Nuits-St-Georges.

Restaurant Le Montrachet, Pouligny Montrachet

Later, we donned our best attire to dine at Restaurant Le Montrachet in the village of Puligny Montrachet, SW of Beaune. A one-star Michelin restaurant, Le Montrachet promised a special gourmet experience and did not disappoint. As the photo shows, the setting is most attractive. Tables are well spaced for privacy. The menu offered reasonably priced three-course selections.  The wine list read like a telephone book. I gave up after a few minutes and asked Madame la Sommelière which moderately priced Pinot Noir would best complement our menu choices. She recommended a 2009 Savigny-les-Vergelesses that was perfect. We each had a glass of “Village” Puligny to start and chose menus at E64. The total bill came to E225 (approximately $250) including taxes and service! Given the quality of the food, wine and service, we found it to be excellent value. Find twenty-nine other one-star Michelin restaurants in Burgundy at http://www.burgundytoday.com/restaurants/michelin-restaurants.htm.

Hospices-de-Beaune

On Thursday, June 9, while touring Beaune, we visited the Hospices de Beaune, dating from the 15^th Century, an amazing historical site. Established by Nicholas Rollin as a hospital and refuge for the poor and the elderly, The Dukes of Burgundy and others have subsequently donated some 150 acres of prime vineyards to the hospital foundation.  Since 1859, auctions have been held annually, with the proceeds going to maintaining the hospital, until it closed only in the late 1970’s. See photo.

Maison de Vins, Cellar Tour

We also took the Maison des Vins cellar tour and wine tasting. The wines were OK, but we enjoyed looking at the extensive colored maps of the Grand Cru and Premier Cru locations for both red and white Burgundies. See photo.

 

 

Cellar Tour, Chateau de Meursault

After lunch we took another cellar tour and tasting at the Chateau de Meursault, which is probably an overly-expensive way to learn about Meursault wines. However, we were anxious to purchase two bottles of “decent” Meursault for my brother-in-law whom we visited the next weekend in the UK, Meursault being one of his favorites. Next to Puligny Montrachet, it is probably one of the most sought-after white Burgundies. Prices start at $50 and can go up to several hundred dollars a bottle. We were successful and had the added pleasure of sharing them with Miles, accompanied by a beautiful salmon lunch he prepared later that week.

In conclusion, for wine and food lovers, Burgundy is an excellent destination to learn more about some of the best red and white wines in the world, among some of the charming and historic “Beaux Villages de France”.

 

Sources:

The Wine Bible, Karen MacNeil, Workman Publishing, 2001

“The Burdens of Burgundy,” Jancis Robinson, Financial Times, April 2/3, 2016

“17 Red BurgundyValues,” Bruce Sanderson, The Wine Spectator, March 27, 2015 at http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/51375.

Winesearcher.com at http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-burgundy.

 

Wine Touring in Croatia

Morning view of the active Rovinj harbor.

 

To continue our story of touring Slovenia and Croatia, we took a train from Ljubljana to Riejka, rented a car for our next four days of touring the Istrian Peninsula, and drove to Rovinj. The longer we stayed in Rovinj, the more we liked this picturesque fishing and medieval town on the Adriatic.

Cobbled streets of Rovinj!

No vehicles are allowed in the old town so we had to park just outside of town and roll our suitcases several hundred meters along cobbled streets to the Hotel Tutterotto, located just off the main square. Geraldine had booked us into a suite on the top floor with beautiful views of the harbor. This turned out to be well worth the money, a large beautifully decorated bedroom, at approximately 200 E a night. The breakfasts were the best of our trip! A creaky elevator eased the luggage problem. We lunched around the corner from the hotel on locally harvested mussels, washed down with suitably chilled malvasia from a nearby vineyard at $4 per glass. That evening we dined al fresco at La Puntulina, a relatively expensive but good restaurant with a million $ view of the sunset over the Adriatic! We decided to spend our second day in Istria driving to the northern tip of the peninsula to visit the Slovenian port of Piran, but the weather did not cooperate and we decided Piran was less attractive than Rovinj and probably not worth a half-day side trip. Upon our return to Rovinj, all the conveniently located parking areas were temporarily closed to accommodate a “Red Bull” event and the parking attendants had no plan B for the thousand or so tourists who were “displaced.” Nor was our hotel able to help. Eventually,we were able to  find a suitable place, but it cost us unnecessary time and stress. The unhelpful attitude of the attendants made us wonder if their indifference was a cultural hangover from their autocratic past -“don’t question orders!”

We thoroughly enjoyed Kantinon Tavern!

We soon forgot the day’s troubles, dining out that evening at the local Kantinon Tavern, a rustic but attractive restaurant,  great atmosphere with a father/son guitar duo, moderately priced,  but good food and excellent service. Our waiter knew his wines and delivered some excellent samples  of what we could look forward to in the next few days of vineyard visits in the interior.

Istria claims to have the best food in Croatia! A mix of Italian influence, locally grown fresh produce, seafood freshly caught from the nearby Adriatic and truffles from the inland hills offer an unbeatable combination! We loved the local versions of prosciutto (Prsut) in Slovenia and Croatia. The wine growing tradition dates back to the ancient Greeks. It is said that nearly 50% of wine production never reaches the market and is consumed at home! 80% of production is white wines, principally malvasia. Teran is the main red and is sometimes blended with merlot. Teran and Prsut are great wine pairings while malvasia accompanies seafood and the other dishes very well. Teran complements tomato based dishes.

Vineyard Visits in Istria

Motovun: a beautiful ancient walled city!

The main wine areas on the Istrian peninsula are located along the Adriatic Coast and inland in the central and northern hills. Both the coast and the hill country make excellent touring. Motovun is a classic, well-preserved hill town where we spent two nights at the Villa Borga.

 

I’m enjoying a glass of local malvasia while trying to find the Adriatic on the horizon 20 km away!

We could just make out the Adriatic on the horizon from the Villa’s 2^nd floor deck, along with super views of the vineyards and fields far below. On the way from Rovinj to Motovun, we took a circuitous route and called in to three vineyards:

 

Pilato Winery tasting room!

 

Pilato Winery, Visinada: tasted their current offerings of whites and liked their malvasia (mv) and pinot blanc (pb) wines. Both were young and fresh with good acidity. Tasted the teran, but found it somewhat closed with prominent tannins. Link: http://www.vina-pilato.com/index_eng.html

Kubola is perched on a hilltop above their vineyards!

Kobola Winery, Momjan: beautiful vineyard buildings perched on a hilltop, an obviously expensive restoration featuring original stone work, fabulous views, and a very quiet and relaxing situation. Preferred the young 2013 mv to its older versions. 2010 Teran was somewhat tart. Definitely worth a visit and, although we didn’t eat here, they have a small restaurant off their attractive tasting room. Link: http://www.kabola.hr/en/wine-tasting.

2013 Teran

 

Kozlovic Winery, Momjam: I definitely liked their latest (2014) Malvasia. It was fresh, young, and with good fruit and bouquet. I also enjoyed the 2013 Teran (best so far). It was light but had sufficient texture and body to the finish. Their U.S. importer is Vinum USA at www.vinumusa.com. I’m waiting for their 2014 Malvasia and the 2013 Teran to arrive here. Link for winery: http://www.kozlovic.hr/index.php/en

The next day we visited:

 

 

 

Nikola Benvenuti describes their wines!

Benvenuti Winery, Motovun: while we did taste their white wines, we were very impressed with their 2011 Teran which was even better than the Kozlovic teran we had just tasted. It was richer, with noticeably less tannins. At 70,000 bottles p.a. the Benvenuti Vineyard’s volume is somewhat below the threshold to export to the US, but they are selling to neighboring countries as well as IT and NL and have plans to market in the US through the Europa Café. We were very impressed with the talent of the Nikola and Albert Benvenuti who manage the vineyard. Yes, we purchased and enjoyed a bottle later! Link: http://www.benvenutivina.com/

While we didn’t make any specific winery visits further south along the Dalmatian Coast, we did drink a number of good wines from the central and southern wine regions. One of the best sources I came across for more in-depth detail on Croatian wines and regions is from Wines of Croatia, published in May, 2011 by the Croatian Chamber of Economy available on the Blue Danube Wine Company’s website:  https://www.bluedanubewine.com/pdf/Wines_of_Croatia.pdf.

Here is a brief summary of the wines we came across and enjoyed from north to south:

Istria: white – malvasia (varietal unique to Istria), red – teran.

Central Dalmatia:   white -Vugava, red – Plavac mali

Southern Dalmatia: white – Posip, Grk, and Malvasia dubrovacka (varietal with some common characteristics to other Mediterranean grown malvasia)

 

Our Favorite Restaurants in Croatia:

Rovinj: La Puntulina and Kantinon Tavern – see comments and photo above under Rovinj.

Motovun: Konoba Mondo: first class restaurant at reasonable prices unless you are big on truffles! Excellent service, wine list, and appetizing menu! “konoba” means “tavern”!

Vhr: Konoba Vhr – Delicious home style cooking in a fairly simple but comfortable and welcoming environment. We enjoyed fuzi pasta filled with wild boar! It was a great experience!  This is a favorite of locals from neighboring villages and less well-known to the tourist crowd. The experience was reminiscent of similar lunches in small villages in the Austrian Alps!

Split: Restaurant Sperun – We were only in Split for 24 hours being wary of cruise ships, but that was enough to take a private tour of the magnificent Diocletian’s Palace and connect with a ferry to the island of Hvar. Afterr having such a fun experience the first evening at Sperun, we decided to go back for lunch the next day. Both meals were great and the waiters entertaining.

 

 

 

 

 

Wines of Slovenia: Selected Impressions and Vineyards

Lake Bled, the most picturesque lake in Europe!

Introduction:

Why would anyone wish to travel to Slovenia? The answer is that it offers some of the most scenic sights in Europe such as Lake Bled, as well as excellent food and wines at reasonable prices. My wife, Geraldine, and I made a good choice to spend a week there from May 12-19 this year. Slovenia has a unique climate and geographic profile with the Julian Alps in the north on the Italian and Austrian borders and limited coastal exposure on the Adriatic in between Trieste to the west and Croatia to the south. It lies at the crossroads between Western Europe and the Balkans. Flying into Ljubljana, its capital, one is impressed with how green the country is from the northwestern Alps through the forested foothills and plains.

Slovenia and its Balkan neighbors

Slovenia is a very small country geographically of 4,000 sq. mi., smaller than CT, and has a population of 2M. It was the first state to declare its independence from the former Yugoslavia in 1990. It has been a member of the EU since 2004 and was admitted to the Euro Zone in 2007.

A beautiful river through the center of city! Check out the many bridges!

Ljubljana is centrally located on the Ljubljanica River, which the city has made good use of as a major tourist attraction. Its banks within the old town are lined with attractive restaurants and cafes that make for excellent people watching. Its architectural revival in the late 19^th and early 20th centuries brought new bridges, exploited the riverfront and generally enhanced its attractiveness. Early restrictions on commercial traffic have limited the old town area to cyclists and pedestrians. Aside from Lake Bled and Ljubljana, much of the country is off the tourist map!

Wine Touring:

After our first 24 hrs at Lake Bled, we spent three days in the Goriska Brda on the Italian border. This is one of Slovenia’s best wine producing areas. I managed to get appointments with five of the half dozen vineyards selected based on my own research and recommendations from Robert Gorjak, who is a Master of Wine, a freelance wine writer, and teaches at the Belvin Wine School in Ljubljana. The Brda vineyards are located close together within a few kms of the IT border and appointments are easily made in advance by email or phone.

Wine Making

There appear to be several influences affecting winemaking in the Goriska Brda. Obviously the Italian historical success with white wines from the Collio region across the border and their focus on marketing to western European countries created demand for younger, fresher, more straight forward offerings of rebula, sivi pinot (pinot gris pg), pinot bianco (pb), sauvignon blanc (sb), and chardonnay (ch). Mostly merlot, cabernet franc, and to a lesser extent, cabernet sauvignon are the international varietals grown locally. An indigenous red grape, teran, is widely grown with good success. 70% of production is white with rebula the leading varietal.

The other influence is from Georgia, in the East, that consists of older, purer, more traditional methods, employing extended maceration periods, longer aging, more exposure to wood, and storage in large amphora vessels (see Kabaj below). This process, used for rebula as well as other whites produces a heavier, textured, and darker colored wine that frankly we found less appealing. I believe it is an acquired taste, our’s being affected by exposure to mostly western winemaking practices. We found the younger, fresher, less wooded wines extremely pleasant.

We stayed at the Wine Farm Kabaj and were very well looked after by Katja, whose family has owned the farm for several generations and her husband, Jean Michele, the current winemaker who has readily adapted to his new role over the last 20+ years. Katja’s breakfasts and a special evening multi course dinner were excellent. The accommodations are basic but clean and comfortable. Katja takes very good care of her guests!

Vineyard Visits

Teresa shows us her wines!

Kristancic, Medana: 5/14 we visited the Kristancic Tasting Room hosted by Teresa in, a small, pretty village with a church, café, and a few modest homes surrounded by vineyards aand cherry orchards. We tasted 6 wines, mostly whites. They won a Decanter award for their 2012 Merlot (ML), but it wasn’t available for tasting. Production is too small to consider serious exporting, but they do sell to neighboring countries and the UK. After tasting rebula, (rb) sb, ch, we tried pg, Geraldine’s favorite, so we purchased a bottle. We also tried a 2013 merlot (ml) and cabernet sauvignon (cs), but found them young and tight. Perhaps more time in the bottle would improve them.

Kabaj Morel nearby vineyard.

Kabaj Morel Winery, Slovrenc: that evening Jean Michele Morel, the winemaker, invited us to his cellar for a comprehensive tasting of his many offerings. He has been one of the local drivers of their traditional approach to Slovenian winemaking. The family has 12 ha of vineyards, produces 70,000 bottles of wine p.a., 70% of which is white. Both red and white age in French barrels for at least one year, followed by a few months in bottles. He macerates white wines for at least a day except rb is exposed for 30 days. This is designed to deepen the fruitiness and minerality of the wine and gives it its characteristic golden coloring. amphoras (clay vessels 3,500 l ea) are used for longer-term storage following the traditional Georgian kvevris method.

Kabaj Morel modern cellar and playful cat!

Whites also include pb, pg, sb, and malvasia (mv). Ml dominates the red wines produced and is blended with cs, cabernet Franc (cf), and petite verdot (pv). We much preferred the current crop of white wines unwooded and aged w/o extended maceration. There is, according to Jean Michele, a substantial following for these wines. Jean Michelle aggressively market his wines and has travels extensively to China, Korea, Russia and the UK. Kabaj wines can be purchased in the US through the Blue Danube Company, Los Altos, CA. https://www.bluedanubewine.com/

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Scurek Winery, Medana: 5/15. Like most of the vineyards I’ve visited, at least the third generation is taking over the winery and vineyard management and winemaking functions. I visited with Primoz Scurek, an excellent host, who took me through their impressive list of white and red wines produced on 20 ha of vineyards on both sides of the Italian border. Annual production of quality wines totals 80,000, and they sell a small quantity to the US through Robert Arnold Selections, Calistoga, CA. http://robertarnoldselections.com/pages/portfolio. Some 22% of production is devoted to rb and the 2014 tasted young, fresh bouquet, and fruity. I preferred by far their 2013 beli pinot (pb) that had a distinctive bouquet, good minerality, and was dry and crisp. I will look for this one in the next few months in the US. The 2014 pg had only been in the bottle a couple of weeks and tasted very green. The sb and ch were both drinkable but less remarkable. The 2009 Dugo is an interesting 60/40 rb/ch blend and stays 3 yrs in oak. It’s long-lived and probably an interesting longer-term hold. I was excited by the distinctive Pikolit varietal and tasted its 2009 with 14.5% alcohol. An indigenous grape, this wine had a knock out bouquet and a silky texture that I have not experienced with non-fortified white wines. Scurek only makes this in super vintages! I was also interested that the cf red at 13.8% alcohol tasted lighter than the cs or the 2012 ml. The latter had excellent color but needed more aging. It tasted very young and tight.

Marjan Simcic Winery, Ceglo: 5/15. Hosted by Valerija Simcic-Kalan, Marjan’s sister, who gave me an excellent tour of their very modern, stylish and impressive cellar and tasting room. Marjan represents the fifth generation of Simcics who have grown grapes and made wine in this area. Now with 20 ha under vines, and a relatively new cellar and winemaking facilities, Marjan has launched a new line up of Classic, Cru Selections, and Opaka (local word defining the Brda region’s schist (shale) type soil that forces the vines’ roots to work harder and deeper to produce better grapes) or specially grown and aged wines using bio-dynamic sustainable practices. The classic line of white wines included the rb, sb, savignonasse, a local indigenous varietal and ch. My preference was for the pg and ch. The Crus and the Opakas are heavier in texture, age, and wood. The 2009 Opaka Merlot stood out among the other premium reds. I did not taste the well-regarded Leonardo sweet wine.

Zanut Winery, Neblo, 5/15: I enjoyed a very good tasting experience Friday afternoon with Mateja Kocijancic Zanut, the winemaker’s wife. Favorites were the 2013 whites: sb, pg, and the 2008 Augustus cs from a single vineyard originally planted by her grandfather. I didn’t taste it, but the ml Brjac has also fared well in international competitions. Zanut is shipping a small number of cases to the US through Slovenian Premium Wines. http://www.slovenianpremiumwines.com/about-us/ . I will be looking for the sb and the pg.

Vipava Valley: I regret we didn’t have time to visit this excellent winegrowing region, SE of the Goriska Brda region 1 1/2 hours drive from Dibrovo. While dining at Fine Food Penzion Berc at Lake Bled on our first evening in Slovenia, our waiter, Igor, having sensed my interest in Slovenian wines gave us several different wines to taste, and one of these was a 2013 Stokelj pinela, an old indigenous varietal from the Vipava Valley http://www.vas-planina.si/si/stokelj . Stokelj is reputed to produce the best-made pinela in the valley. Having subsequently done more reading on this fruity, but pleasantly dry, textured, white wine, I noted that a 2009 Batic pinela scored 94 pts by Wine & Spirits and is available in the US from the Blue Danube Wine Company. I’ve ordered it along with some others. I also found an excellent pictorial personal blog on the Vipava Valley written by Erin McNeany who toured this valley a couple of years ago with her husband, Simon, dined at the well-regarded Majerija Restaurant and tasted a number of Vipava Valley wines at the local vinoteca. For further excellent photos and info go to http://www.neverendingvoyage.com/vipava-slovenia/.

Our Top Restaurants in Slovenia:

Saturday’s Huge Outdoor Market in Ljubljana is a must see!

The high quality of local fruit and vegetables is a good omen for great local restaurants in Ljubljana

 Fine Food Penzion Berc, Lake Bled. http://www.penzion-berc.si/si/kulinarika. We had a memorable al fresco dinner here for my birthday with excellent wines and service for under E 100 for 2 persons.

La Subida Restaurant, Cormons, IT just across the SI/IT border, less than 6 Km from Dibrovo, Goriska Brda. Michelin*! Impeccable service, high quality food. Wines from both IT and SI. Wonderful, multi-generational, well-run family restaurant! http://www.lasubida.it/ .

Spajza Restaurant, Ljubljana. A tad away from the main tourist areas but worth a short walk for a great menu, outdoor garden, excellent service and value. http://www.spajza-restaurant.si/en/.

Restaurant Julija, Ljubljana. Well-located for outdoor eating and people watching, plus good food, wines and service. http://julijarestaurant.com/.

Stay tuned for my next blog on Wines of Croatia.

Wines of Piedmont Italy

Hills and Vineyards of The Langhe

In late September/early October, we were lucky enough to spend 2 ½ weeks in the Langhe region of Piedmont, 25 miles SE of Turin – heaven for any wino or foodie. The Langhe is a hilly area south and east of the Tanaro River, famous for its wines, cheeses and truffles, with the town of Alba its main commercial and tourist center. In the fall, temperatures are still in the 60’s and 70’s. It’s harvest time in the vineyards, but the restaurants still serve fresh summer vegetables. Having visited Tuscany and other areas of Italy, we also appreciated seeing fewer tourists.

Inntravel, (http://www.inntravel.co.uk/) had arranged a 7-day trek for us through this picturesque countryside, with friends from South Africa and the U.S. They booked our hotels, organized local transport, and supplied us with route directions and maps. Each hotel took our luggage to the next destination, so we only had to carry rain jackets, water, and a picnic lunch. Routes were primarily on dirt tracks through the vineyards, many of them owned by some of the best producers of Barolo wine! This 50-mile trek provided a unique introduction to the area, its food and its wines, including an excuse to eat dessert! We learned to pace ourselves through the Piedmont restaurant regimen of Anti-Pasta, Primi, Secundo, and Dulce. By the end of the week we felt comfortable with menus and wine lists, and each of us had settled on our favorite local wines.

Following the trek, while Geraldine was immersed in a 3-day landscape photography workshop, I took the opportunity to visit a number of vineyards. These, plus others we visited together while on Mama Margaret’s 4-day customized Wine and Cooking Tour (http://www.italycookingschools.com/tours-in-italy/northern-italy/piedmont/4-nights-barolo-wine-country), are summarized below.

Review of Piedmont Varietals

Red wines reign supreme in the Langhe region. Piedmont’s claim to wine fame is the Nebbiolo grape, a noble red varietal that produces great wines only in northwestern Italy.

Some say nebbiolo is derived from the Italian word for fog, nebbia, that usually prevails at October harvest time in the Langhe. Barolo and Barbaresco are considered two of the world’s leading wines.

Barolo and Barbaresco

Both Barolo and Barbaresco are classified DOCG wines by the Italian Government and are made entirely from the Nebbiolo grapes grown in the Langhe hills near Alba, and each is named after a village within its production zone. These wines are robust reds — very dry, full-bodied and high in tannins, acidity, and alcohol. Their bouquets suggest tar, violets, roses, ripe strawberries, and occasionally truffles. They are truly unique for their long-lived ageing. Many of these wines are not ready to drink for at least a decade and continue to improve for some 30 years! Barolo is more full-bodied than Barbaresco and usually requires more aging. Barbaresco is sometimes described as a more “feminine” wine due to its softer tannins and elegance. Otherwise, the two wines are very similar. Like most Italian wines, they show at their best with food. In the U.S., good Barolo and Barbaresco wines usually start at $40 and run to well over $100 per bottle. The market reflects the high esteem earned by the superlative quality of these wines.

Weekday Red Wines

The Piedmontese reserve serious wines like Barolo and Barbaresco for Sunday dinner or special occasions. Their everyday drinking red wines are Dolcetto, Barbera, and Nebbiolo (grown outside of prestigious DOCG zones such as Barolo and Barbaresco). Of the three, Dolcetto is the lightest-bodied and is usually the first red wine served in a Piedmontese meal. Given the market premium for Barolo and Barbaresco, they are given the best locations within an individual vineyard while the other three are relegated to less productive locations.

•Dolcetto: If you know enough Italian to translate the phrase la dolce vita, you may think that the name Dolcetto indicates a sweet wine. Actually, the Dolcetto grape tastes fruity but the wine is distinctly dry and somewhat grapey with noticeable tannin. Dolcetto is often compared to Beaujolais, but it’s drier and more tannic than most Beaujolais wines and generally goes better with food. Dolcetto sells here for $11 to $25. The best Dolcetto comes from the town of Dogliani. Many vintners I met on my tasting visits admitted that their favorite day-to-day wine was Dolcetto!

•Barbera: While Dolcetto is unique to Piedmont, the Barbera grape is the second most widely-planted red grape variety in all of Italy. Sangiovese is the most planted red varietal. But it’s in Piedmont — specifically in the Asti and Alba wine growing areas — that Barbera excels. It’s a rich, red wine with high acidity and generous black-cherry fruit character. Barbera is now more popular in the United States than it has ever been. Prices for good Barbera start about $15 and go to $30 and higher.

•Nebbiolo: A third weekday red from Piedmont is Nebbiolo (d’Alba or Langhe), made from Nebbiolo grapes usually from younger vines grown in vineyards outside the prized Barolo or Barbaresco areas. The wine is lighter in body and easier to drink than either Barolo or Barbaresco, and it sells here for about $15 to $25 a bottle. Another variation is Roero Rosso, made almost entirely from Nebbiolo, and offering some outstanding values.

White Wines

Almost all of Piedmont’s wines are red, but the region does boast two interesting dry whites that became our favorites:

•Gavi, named for a town in southern Piedmont, is a very dry wine with pronounced acidity, made from the Cortese grape. Most Gavis sell for $13 to $24, while a premium Gavi, La Scolca’s Black Label, costs around $45.

•Arneis is a white wine produced in the Roero zone near Alba from a long-forgotten grape, which was rescued by Alfredo Currado, owner of Vietti winery, nearly 40 years ago. Arneis is a dry to medium-dry wine with a rich texture. It’s best when it is consumed within two years of the vintage; a bottle sells for $20 to $28. Besides Vietti’s, look for Bruno Giacosa’s and Ceretto’s Arneis.

Notes from Langhe Region Winery Visits

October 2: Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco: a very quaint, attractive, classic Piedmont Village a few miles NE of Alba. The HQ of the Produttori Barbaresco Commune is located in the middle of the village in a rather unpretentious building. This commune is unique for its size – 51 families, as well as its rules of membership. It has been closed to new entrants for many years. Members contract to sell 100% of their grapes grown within the Barbaresco designated DOCG to the commune each year. In return the Commune pays them Euros 2-5 per Kilo based on a quantitative and qualitative formula. The higher the quality the higher is the payment. The commune produces approximately 3M bottles annually, of which about half is exported. The US is their largest market. Barbaresco must be aged for a minimum of two years in oak &/or bottles. Single vineyard reserve wines are aged an extra year. The commune produces a Langhe Nebbiolo from younger vines, accounting for some 20% of production.

I tasted the 2011 Langhe Nebbiolo, its latest release, that although young, has an assertive character and should be an excellent premium table wine within the next few years.

I also tasted their basic Barbaresco from 2008 and 2009. The former’s one year of additional ageing showed more integrated tannins and was more approachable, but the 2009 showed promise of a similar evolution.

Both were easily outclassed by the 2007 single vineyard riserva from the Montefico Vineyard. This wine captivated me with its deep cherry bouquet, reminding me of a well-aged French Burgundy. Synchronicity at work, the farmer/winemaker for Montefico happened by the office and was introduced just as we finished tasting his wine. I also tasted the ’08 Muncagota single vineyard riserva, but it needed to be aged a couple of more years to catch up. The recommended drinking life of a Montefico is 2018-29!
This is obviously a well-run operation and the Commune clearly has the right incentives to continue to improve the quality of these wines each year to the benefit of their members.

Marcarini, La Morra: on 25 beautifully situated hectares (60+ acres) this winery grows all the main varietals of the region. It is best known for its Barolo from the La Serra and Brunate vineyards. My favorite was the ’08 Brunate. Bouquet is rich with cherries and dark fruit and was surprisingly approachable for such a “young” Barolo. Available in the U.S. at $45-50. Its drinkability range is 2016-30. If you visit La Morra, make sure you go to the beautiful square at the top and take in the view of the rolling Langhe hills with its many vineyards and hilltop villages.

October 3; Massolino, Serralunga: another village worth a visit to see its castle, church, and the views. In the midst of building larger cellars and expanding, Massolino has made wine here for 140 years passing it from one generation to the next. They produce 100-120,000 bottles a year on 23 hectares. I liked their Chardonnay fashioned after the French white Burgundies and made to age for more than ten years. It is pale yellow, with a good fruity bouquet, full-bodied and a long finish. I also liked their top-of-the-Barolo-line Parussi 2007/08. Both exhibited deep bouquets of light cherries, noticeable but softening tannins, with dark fruit, tar and chocolate flavors. They were well-integrated. The Wine Spectator gave the 2008 a 95 rating last year and the price jumped to $80. I bet the 2007 is a better buy at $60. Note the professional ratings on Barolos are looking at the wine’s long term potential not how they are drinking now! Not sure my taste buds have reached that level of sophistication yet!

Fontanafredda, Serralunga: the physical plant is extensive and has an interesting history. In the 1860’s this was the first King of Italy, Vittorio Emanuel II’s, hunting lodge where he kept his mistresses and wine has been produced here for over 150 years. The Pope’s bank purchased Fontanafredda in 1921 and in 2008, sold it to Oscar Farinetti, the founder of Eataly. Having only visited private family run vineyards, I was a bit put off by the impersonal, large-scale commercialization of the place. But I succumbed to tasting a few wines: and I liked their sparkling, Contessa Alta Langhe, and the 94-rated (James Suckling) Barolo La Rosa ’08, which is a single vineyard, expensive but good, bottle of wine, probably close to $70 in the U.S.

October 4:  Barale Fratelli, Barolo: Sergio Barala the current owner/manager, gave us a tour of his cellars, located in the historical center of the village of Barolo. He runs a relatively small operation on 20 hectares with only seven planted with Nebbiolo grapes. His family has been producing wine here since 1870 and currently they make 50,000 bottles a year. Sergio represents the traditionalists among Barolo producers and supports longer fermentation together with ageing in French oak casks. I did taste an excellent cru Barolo of recent vintage, but his operation is too small to consider exporting to the US.

October 5: Gigi Rosso, Castiglione Falletto: good tour led by Gigi’s son, Maurizio, who spoke excellent English. Tasted full range of his red, white, and Rose wines. I liked his Barbera d’Alba Arione del Cavalle, aged twelve months in steel, twelve months in FR oak barriques and six months in bottles. Haven’t been able to find it here yet. I also like their single vineyard Barolo Arione 2009 from the Serralunga vineyard. Beautiful dark purple color with characteristic orange tint at the rim. It was aged thirty-six months in Slovenian oak plus six months in bottles. The Wine Spectator has rated older vintages over 90. Distributor in the U.S. is Wine-4-All located in NYC area.

Ocotber 6: Banca del Vino, Pollenzo: The Agenzia di Pollenzo which houses the Banca del Vino, was founded in 1835 by King Carlo Alberto as the HQ for viniculture. Its buildings fell into disrepair until they were beautifully restored by the Slow Food Association to become the University of Gastronomic Science. The Slow Food Movement was founded to promote traditional food preparation and Italian viniculture. In addition to culinary arts, and a hotel school, the University houses the Banca del Vino. The campus and its buildings offer a classic architectural treat and have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Banca del Vino was created in 2001 by a group of 300 Italian wine producers with the aim of becoming the focal point of oenological culture of quality wines throughout Italy. The founders were concerned that the best quality wines were being bought up by the market before they matured and were not available to be appreciated by the public at large. They deposited some 100,000 bottles from throughout Italy in the bank’s cellars. The BdV charges for tours and tastings and some small portion of their wines go on sale very year. The highlight of our tasting was a Roero Nebbiolo Superiore 1998 from the Malvira Vineyard. The Roero is the region directly North of the Barolo region across the Tanaro River. It produces some outstanding red Nebbiolos and the white Arneis. Wine writer for the Financial Times, Francis Robinson, refers to the outstanding values Roero Nebbiolo can offer. This is an excellent wine and we were lucky it was available for tasting. It had a great bouquet, depth, balance and finish. It was ready to be enjoyed at 15 years of age! Later we came across a Malvira ’07 Roero Nebbiolo at a restaurant in Turin almost as good! It’s hard to find in the U.S., but I have ordered 6 bottles of the ‘07 on the Internet at about $25 per bottle.

October 7: Rocche Costamagna, La Morra: back to La Morra to this beautifully-situated village. It doubles as a B & B, with four rooms and outstanding views! If the décor in the tasting room and offices is any indication, it would be a very attractive place to stay! Although not yet available in the U.S., I wanted to mention several of their wines that I found to be outstanding. I liked their Barbera d’Alba Superiore Rocche del Rocche ’09 and the Annunciata Barolos from “07 & ’08. They also make an awesome NV rose sparkling, Brut Ose’ at 11 Euros, unfortunately not exported!

Marchesi di Gresy, Barbaresco: the best wines I tasted during my visit came from the first vineyard visited, Produttori del Barbaresco and the last, Marchesi di Gresy! This vintner produces some of the best wines in the Piedmont region and is well worth a visit. The three best that I tasted were all from the famous Martinenga Vineyard that is reputed to have the best location in the region. I tasted the 2008 Martinenga Barbaresco as well as their two single vineyard versions, 2006 Gaiun Martinenga Barbaresco, and the 2008 Camp Gros Barbaresco. The 2006 runs in the $70+ range here and the “plain” Barbaresco is available in the $45-50 range. The 2008 Camp Gros does not appear to be available here yet. All three wines were the best I tasted in my Piedmont travels. They exhibited beautiful rich color, aromatic aromas, and deep complex flavors. They are truly outstanding wines and appropriately have earned high ratings. We had a chance to chat with di Gresy’s Cellarmaster, Jeffrey Chilcott, who hails from New Zealand!

The photos and editing are courtesy of Geraldine Macomber.

Bibliography:
http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/jrs03413/layout/print.html
http://www.amazing-north-italy.com/italian-cooking-recipes.html
http://www.winemag.com/May-2013/Traveling-in-Piedmont/
http://www.theatlantic.com/past/docs/issues/2000/08/kummer.htm
http://www.tastings.com/wine/index.html
http://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/the-charms-of-lesser-nebbiolo-

http://www.winereviewonline.com/Michael_Franz_on_Barolo_O_Seven.cfm
http://www.winereviewonline.com/Michael_Franz_on_Barolo_Oh_Eight.cfm#
http://www.winereviewonline.com/Michael_Franz_on_Barolo_Two_Thousand_Nine.cfm
http://www.winereviewonline.com/Ed_McCarthy_on_Piedmont_Everyday_Reds.cfm
http://www.winewordswisdom.com/index.html

Appendix:

Recommended Piedmont Wines (< $50), Ratings, Prices, and Sources:

Arneis:
’12 Castello di Neive Arneis Langhe Montebertotto WS 90 $17 (MacArthur Beverages: http://www.bassins.com)
’12 Vietti Roero Arneis UR CT 88 $20 (Get Wine Online:http://www.getwineonline.com/)

Gavi:

’12 Pio Cesare Gavi DOCG Gavi UR CT 89 $18 Sherry Lehman, NYC

’12 Broglia Gavi La Meirana UR CT 90 $16 (Wine Made Easy: http://www.winemadeeasy.com/)

Dolcetto:
’10 Anna Maria Abbono “Maoli” Dogliani JS 93 $21 (K & L Wines: http://www.klwines.com)
’11 Francesco Boschis Dogliani Vigne dei Prey WS 90 $20 All Star Wine and Spirits: http://www.allstarwine.com)
’11 Pecchenino San Luigi JS 90 $12 (Budget Bottle: http://www.budgetbottle.com/)

Barbera d’Alba/d’Asti:
’11 Vietti Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne ST 91 $15 (Wine Exchange: http://www.winex.com)
’11 Vietti Babera d’Alba Tre Vigne ST 90 $21 (Wine Works on Line: http://www.wineworksonline.com

’11 Mauro Veglio Barbera d’Alba WS 90 $ 15: (Wine Works On Line: http://www.wineworksonline.com)

Nebbiolo Langhe/Roero:
’10 Vietti Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco ST 90 $21 (Firewines: http://www.firewines.com)

’10 Marchesi di Gresy Nebbiolo Langhe Martinenga $22 88 (The Savory Grape Wine Shop:http://www.thesavorygrape.com)
’07 Malvira Roero Nebbiolo CT 88 $25 (The Savory Grape Wine Shop: http://www.thesavorygrape.com)

Barbaresco:
’11 Produttori del Barbaresco WS 89 $20 (Astor Wines: http://www.astorwines.com)
’07 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Montifico ST 93 $45 (Firewines: http://www.firewines.com)
’09 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga WS 92 $44 (Get Wine On Line: http://www.getwineonline.com)
’08 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabaja WA 92 $43 (Get Wine On Line: http://www.getwineonline.com

Barolo:
’09 Vietti Castiglione WS/ST 92 WA 93 $37 CT 91.5 avg val $43 (Wine Exchange: http://www.winex.com)
’07 Giovanni Corino Vigna Giachini RP/ST 94 $42 CT 92 Avg val $49 (Circle Liquors: http://www.wineaccess.com/store/circleliquors)
’07 Mauro Veglio Vigneto Aborina WS/RP/ST 92 $50 CT 91 Avg val $48 (Total Wine, McLean: http://www.totalwine.com/store/mcLean)

CT: Cellar Tracker
JS: James Suckling
ST: Stephen Tanzer

UR: Unrated

WA/RP: Wine Advocate/Robert Parker
WS: Wine Spectator

What’s All the Fuss about Unoaked Chardonnays?

I’ve noticed in the last couple of years more of my friends are talking about unoaked Chardonnays.  I, too, found myself looking for wines that exhibit more natural flavors, with more citrus, crispness and minerality. Such wines stand on their own and don’t require camouflaging with extra additives or process. In fact, many  critics believe that fermentation in steel vats actually enhances the true terroir these grapes represent.

So I have been on the lookout for unoaked chardonnays available in the U.S. around that “$20 sweet spot” previously discussed in my August 2012 Blog. I have put together a list from various sources including the Wine Spectator, The Wine Enthusiast, Wine-searcher Pro, and Snooth. I also compared the professional ratings (where available) with Cellar Tracker to see if our fellow wine drinkers agreed with those of the paid professionals!

Notice the words “stainless”, “steel”, “Acero”,“metal”, and “naked” to describe the unoaked wines! I have included several French wines from the Chablis and the Maconnais also known for their limited or zero use of oak. It is interesting to note that the limestone soils where Chablis is grown are known to contain ground up oyster shells as a result of millions of years of evolution. It’s not surprising that the food pairing for these wines tends to be white or shell fish! The wine ratings have been indicated as a guide. You are the ultimate critic.

Here are live links to some of the top selections and regions:

http://www.lincourtwines.com/

http://marimarestate.com/

http://ironhorsevineyards.com/

http://www.morganwinery.com/

http://www.chamisalvineyards.com/index.html

http://www.mersoleilvineyard.com/

http://www.passaggiowines.com/

http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-chablis

http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-macon-villages

NYT, The Maconnais, Poised for Rediscovery! 6/29/12, Eric Asimov,

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/07/04/dining/reviews/rediscovering-maconnais-wines-like-white-burgundy-but-without-the-expense-wines-of-the-times.html?pagewanted=all

What Is a Good Value Wine?

It has been about one year since my last post! Too many other priorities!  This week the urge to impart has won out triggered by a couple of articles by Eric Asimov I noticed recently in the NYT. As most of you know, I have been a very consistent proponent of drinking the best wine at the lowest prices, but rarely splurging beyond the $25 mark. The definition of good value in wines is a wine priced lower than the median of similar quality wines. Any wine could be called a good value if its price related to comparable quality is lower at any price point.

So how much should one have to pay for a wine that offers excitement, some character, and complexity?  Have you found that those single digit and low double-digit wines are leaving you wondering whether you really want to drink that wine again?  I’ve noticed personally that as I “mature” my capacity to drink wine is declining and my pallet is demanding better quality wines.

This leads me to the two articles* (see below links) from the NYT written by their wine writer, Eric Asimov, who seems to capture my own attitude toward wines as expressed above. These articles have listed sparkling, white, red and rose wines reflecting a broad diversity of grape varietals from the U.S. as well as abroad.  They probably won’t be found on a Wine Spectator list, but they are wines that are well made, are exciting to drink, and are priced around what he calls the “sweet spot” of wine values at $20. His rationale is that one should be prepared to spring for $15-25 to find the quality that offers these characteristics. My own personal experience is that he has found the “bull’s eye” for value in wine drinking.

So I plan to sample some of these and others that I have come across that I would put on my own list as offering the qualities discussed above priced within a few $ of the magic $20 level. Let me know your experiences and what specific wines you might add to this list!

*NYT, “Wine’s Sweet Spot Is a $20 Bill,” July 24, 2012, Eric Asimov 

*NYT, “Bargains from American Vines,” August 16, 2012, Eric Asimov 

The Santa Fe Wine Gourmet’s Good Value Shopping List

This gallery contains 3 photos.

It’s been over half a year since the last shopping list was published and time to put out an updated list with broader variety and reasonable prices.  Given the increasingly dismal global economic situation, we should expect to see more … Continue reading →

Do More Expensive Wines Taste Better?

This post is the direct result of a referral from my youngest son, Dave, who is a dedicated teacher, husband,  father of 2 strapping sons and (our grandsons!) and lives in Portland, OR. Notwithstanding his many responsibilities, he appreciates good wine and food and knowing that his old man does, he alerted me to a Podcast available free at the Itunes Store by Freakonomics  dated 12/15/10 and entitled as above. The host, Stephen Dubner, put together a most interesting program to those of us who enjoy purchasing and consuming wine. Dubner is an economist by training and as such deals with facts and what can be concluded from serious investigation. I encourage you to listen to the full 26 min podcast to get the full story for yourselves, but suffice it to say, he presents two credible experts who discuss their various analyzes and conclusions in answer to this question. As you might have guessed by now, the answer in many blind tastings including those attended by sommeliers, winemakers, and wine retailers, etc. is no! In fact participants actually liked cheaper wines slightly more! The emphasis here is on blind, since, as soon as prices are introduced, participants will favor more expensive wines. Ratings and prices are closely correlated and ratings drive most informed consumers’ behavior. The problem is the experts, for the most part, are conflicted since they sell advertising  to producers whose wine they also rate!

One of the Podcast guests, Robin Goldstein, who has written several books: Wine Trials and Beer Trials, has been a member of The American Association of Wine Economists (http://www.wine-economics.org/board/) and presented the results of a “sting” operation he organized against the Wine Spectator (WS) in 2008. The below excerpt is an amazing piece of creative imagination:

What does it take to get a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence?

Friday, August 15th, 2008

“My name is Robin Goldstein, and I’m the author of a new book called The Wine Trials (book here; website here). Lately, I’ve become curious about how Wine Spectator magazine determines its Awards of Excellence for the world’s best wine restaurants.

As part of the research for an academic paper I’m currently working on about standards for wine awards, I submitted an application for a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. I named the restaurant “Osteria L’Intrepido” (a play on the name of a restaurant guide series that I founded, Fearless Critic). I submitted the fee ($250), a cover letter, a copy of the restaurant’s menu (a fun amalgamation of somewhat bumbling nouvelle-Italian recipes), and a wine list.

In order to make the application appear genuine, I also obtained a Milan phone/fax number, as required by the application, and established a small online presence. Aside from creating the menu and wine list, all of this took less than three hours.

Osteria L’Intrepido won the Award of Excellence, as published in print in the August 2008 issue of Wine Spectator.

Since then, the Osteria’s listing has, not surprisingly, been removed from Wine Spectator‘s website. After the story broke, one of Wine Spectator‘s main claims (aside from calling me names) was that its staff had “called the restaurant multiple times.” However, the only message that was ever left on the restaurant’s voice mailbox (before this story broke) was on May 22, 2008, after Osteria L’Intrepido had already won the Award of Excellence. The message was from the magazine’s ad sales department, asking me if I’d like to buy an advertisement for Osteria L’Intrepido to appear in the August issue along with my listing.”

The most important insight I took away from these presentations is “consumers have performance anxiety” due to the layers of “experts” between us and the wine we buy so we don’t want to make a mistake. The reality is we should be buying wine that gives us pleasure individually whether by transporting us to a different place,  improving our food enjoyment, or just to explore. Visit Goldstein’s website at http://blindtaste.com/category/wine. For Robin’s extensive value wine list recommendations go to http://www.fearlesscritic.com/wine/. Happy hunting!